Conquer Corsica! A Beginner’s Guide to the GR20: Tips, Route Info & What to Expect

A Brief Overview of the GR20

Rough granite ridges, scrambles across rock fields, and tumultuous weather pave the way for hikers daring to take on Europe’s toughest GR, the GR20 in Corsica. This 180-kilometer traverse of Corsica runs from Calenzana to Conca, taking you up and down nearly 12,000 meters of elevation change.

While it may be the toughest hike in Europe, it’s still within reach for most backpackers, beginners, and experts alike. The incredibly well-marked pathways with frequent accommodation and resupply points make this trail one that anyone up for a challenge should try tackling.

If you’re ready to get on the trail and experience the rugged, jagged spine of the mountainous center of the island of Corsica, let’s get going!

The Need-to-Know for Hiking the GR20

The GR20 is an incredibly popular trail that has hikers coming from all around the world to put their boots on the ground and make the trek. That being said, it’s still important to get all the details in working order before setting out on your trip.

For example, reservations are now required for all forms of accommodation, including pitching a tent outside of the refuges. If you show up without a reservation, you may end up without a spot to stay or paying a hefty sum just for a few square meters of grass.

Let’s look at just a few of the need-to-knows for hiking the GR20 in Corsica so you can show up prepped and ready for everything.

Overall Difficulty

While it’s widely regarded as the toughest GR in all of Europe, the GR20 in Corsica is still accessible for people of a wide range of abilities. However, the trail overall is considered difficult, especially in the northern section.

In the north (from Calenzana to Vizzavona), the distances are shorter, but the elevation changes drastically and quickly. There are plenty of moments where you’re scrambling over rocks, climbing ladders, and using chains to assist yourself along steep cliff faces. These sections are not to be taken lightly or without the proper preparation.

In June of 2015, there was a major landslide that occurred on what is called The Cirque de la Solitude, a steep scramble and chain-assisted climb along the GR20. This tragedy took the lives of several climbers, and as of this writing, the path remains closed. The alternative route that takes you to the summit ridge of Monte Cinto is even more challenging than the previous pathway.

Along the southern sections of the route (from Vizzavona to the terminus in Conca), you have longer distances but more gentle inclines and descents. This half of the trail is considered moderately difficult and could be a better place to start for beginner hikers looking to get a taste of Corsica without having the necessary skills for the northern section.

Navigation and Terrain on the GR20

One of the best parts of the trail is the high quality of maintenance and frequency of trailmarkers. These red and white GR blazes are paired with cairns in mountainous regions to make the navigation rather straightforward in good weather.

However, when fog rolls in, or when you’re climbing a granite slab without much to indicate which direction to travel, a GPS device can be beneficial in helping you stay on track.

The terrain across the GR20 in Corsica is aggressive and challenging in certain parts, specifically in the north. These scrambling sections, where you will have your hands on the rocks, moving slowly across steep faces, are often paired with chains to help hikers cross steep rock steps. Often in the high season, you will find queues of hikers waiting to use the chains.

Otherwise, the terrain provides a majestic backdrop with wind-scoured ridges like the Crete d’Usciolu and the Aiguilles de Bavella pinnacles.

Weather on the GR20

Throughout the summer the mountains can bring some spicy weather that makes hiking in the afternoons more difficult. These characteristic afternoon thunderstorms can be dangerous for anyone still out in exposed areas. Strong winds and fog can be common with the quickly changing weather, and need to be prepared for.

At night, the temperatures will plummet at altitude, which means having all the proper gear and layers that may feel totally unnecessary at the beginning of the day, is crucial.

Most hikers will shoot to end their day by mid-afternoon to avoid the thunderstorms. Many others will combine sections, but also increase their risk of encountering these storms later on in the day.

Making Your Itinerary for Hiking the GR20

The GR20 stages set the trail up for a 16-day experience that’s easily laid out, but that isn’t the only way to hike it. Many people will choose to combine certain stages, follow some variants and side trails, or just blast through the trail in a few days’ time.

Making your own itinerary for hiking the GR20 will depend on several factors. Start by deciding a few things such as:

• What’s your goal? To appreciate nature, or challenge yourself with a fast hike?
• What’s your current fitness level? Do you need a few days to get into the flow, or are you hiking long distances every day already?
• What’s your experience with harsh weather in mountainous regions? Are you well-versed in traveling in the mountains during thunderstorms?

The main thing is not to let your available time off work dictate how many days you will spend hiking. Cramming too many stages of the GR20 into too short a time can be incredibly dangerous rather than making it pleasurable.

Hiking The GR20: A Section by Section Guide

The length of the GR20 is broken up into 16 different sections. While many hikers choose to hike a section per day, many can be combined into longer days. Each stage typically ends at a refuge or great spot to camp, making accommodation choices pretty straightforward. The trail is most commonly taken on from North to South, and this is often the best choice so that you can take advantage of the assisted climbing and not run into crowds headed in the opposite direction.

We’ve compiled a guide to each stage that allows for you to make your own personal GR20 itinerary that fits your own abilities and goals.

Stage	Start to Finish	Distance	Elevation Gain/Loss	Avg. Time
1	Calenzana to Ortu di u Piobbu	11 km	+1450 m/ –250 m	6.5 hours
2	Ortu di u Piobbu to Carrozzu	8 km	+720 m/ –950 m	7 hours
3	Carrozzu to Ascu Stagnu	9 km	+800 m/ –640 m	6 hours
4	Ascu Stagnu to Tighjettu	9 km	+1200 m/ –1000 m	8 hours
5	Tighjettu to Ciottulu di i Mori	7 km	+700 m/ –340 m	4 hours
6	Ciottulu di i Mori to Manganu	24 km	+920 m/ –1300 m	8 hours
7	Manganu to Petra Piana	8.5 km	+830 m/ –600 m	6.5 hours
8	Petra Piana to Onda	10 km	+500 m/ –900 m	5 hours
9	Onda to Vizzavona	10.5 km	+700 m/ –1200 m	6 hours
10	Vizzavona to Capanelle	16 km	+1000 m/ –500 m	5.25 hours
11	Capanelle to Prati	17 km	+900 m/ –750 m	6 hours
12	Prati to Usciolu	11 km	+700 m/ –750 m	5.75 hours
13	Usciolu to Matalza	11 km	+300 m/ –600 m	4.5 hours
14	Matalza to Asinau	10 km	+650 m/ –540 m	4 hours
15	Asinau to I Paliri	15 km	+600 m/ –1100 m	7 hours
16	I Paliri to Conca	13.5 km	+370 m/ –1100 m	5 hours

Stage 1: Calenzana to Ortu di u Piobbu

Distance: 11 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 1450 m / -250 m

Average Time to Hike: 6.5 hours

Right out of the gate, the GR20 shows hikers how difficult their trek is going to be. The trail starts with a staggering climb with around 1,450 meters of vertical in just 11 kilometers. If that doesn’t bring the fire into your legs and lungs, then we’re not sure what will.

The trail takes you through exposed slopes covered in oak scrub before it transitions through a pine forest, and ultimately onto granite ridges that bring you your first dramatic views of the Balagne coast. The climb is long and hard, and it’s important to carry enough water, as it can be tough to find after Calenzana.

The stage ends at the Ortu di u Piobbu refuge which sits high up on a ridge with sweeping views of the Mediterranean down below. The original hut burned down in 2019, meaning that facilities now are quite basic, so be sure to come prepared.

Stage 2: Ortu di u Piobbu to Carrozzu

Distance: 8 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 720 m / – 950 m

Average Time to Hike: 7 hours

The hike from Ortu di u Piobbu to Carrozzu is one of the most iconic GR20 stages. You begin by traversings high granite slabs before dropping elevation, and then going straight back up on the other side. This stage is home to the Spasimata footbridge, a thin metal bridge suspended over a gorge that is home to a breathtaking waterfall far down below.

The following descent to Carrozzu can be tricky as it is filled with heavily rooted sections along with polished rocks from the many boots that pass through. The hut sits alongside a small stream, which offers a refreshing cool down dip, or a fast way to wake yourself up in the morning.

Stage 3: Carrozzu to Ascu Stagnu

Distance: 9 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 800 m / – 640 m

Average Time to Hike: 6 hours

This stage is one that requires slow, thoughtful movement along technical sections of trail. That type of hiking can make the 9-kilometer stage feel much, much longer. There is a sustained climb over rough granite, scrambling across loose rock, and plenty of chains and handholds fixed into steep slab sections where you may find yourself bottlenecked into a queue. If the fog rolls in, finding your way can be difficult here so take your time and move thoughtfully.

Finally, you crest Bocca di Stagnu, the highest point of this stage at 2010 meters, before descending toward the Haut Asco refuge. This spot is a major resupply point that offers much more than your typical refuge, like a shop, a restaurant, and better options for sleeping more comfortably.

Stage 4: Ascu Stagnu to Tighjettu

Distance: 9 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 1200 m / – 1000 m

Average Time to Hike: 8 hours

One of the hardest stages on the entire trail is the fourth, but it is also one of the most dramatic and beautiful. While Cirque de la Solitude is closed after the past landslide, the official route now takes you up a steep climb toward Monte Cinto, Corsica’s highest peak (2,706 meters). Although you don’t summit, you still spend the entire stage hiking through rough and rugged granite landscape that requires a high amount of scrambling and steep traverses.

The steep climb is followed by an equally-steep descent toward the Tighjettu refuge. This is one of the more remote huts on the trail that sits high above a wild gorge. This is the stage that starts to make you realize that the GR20 isn’t like other long distance hiking trails in Europe. This one is different.

Stage 5: Tighjettu to Ciottulu di i Mori

Distance: 7 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 700 m / – 340 m

Average Time to Hike: 4 hours

After a long day of climbing, the fifth stage is a bit shorter, but still pushes you to climb another 700 meters up. The landscape on this stage varies between granite and open alpine meadows that start to make you feel like you’re out in the wide open again.

The Ciottulu di i Mori refuge sits at 1,991 meters, making it the highest refuge along the entire trail. It’s perched in a spot that gives you panoramic views of the Paglia Orba massif, often referred to as the “Corsican Matterhorn”.

This is a great stage to hike quickly and enjoy the scenery while you relax and watch the sun go down.

Stage 6: Ciottulu di i Mori to Manganu

Distance: 24 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 920 m / – 1300 m

Average Time to Hike: 8 hours

The longest stage of the entire GR20 runs 24 kilometers through pine forests, alongside rivers, across meadows, and toward a stunning high glacial lake, Lac de Nino. Before arriving at the lake, you’ll run into Castel di Vergio, another great spot to resupply before you keep climbing.

Up at Lac de Nino, semi-wild horses graze in the wide-open uplands, adding to the magic that many hikers report feeling when hiking this stage. The lake itself is a perfect spot to take a long break before your final stretch of open meadows that will land you right in the Manganu refuge.

Stage 7: Manganu to Petra Piana

Distance: 8.5 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 830 m / – 600 m

Average Time to Hike: 6.5 hours

While this stage is short, it still packs a big punch. The trail starts off with a steep climb from Manganu up toward the Brèche de Capitellu, a skinny mountain pass that gives you stunning views of two glacial lakes nestled down below. The view of Capitellu and Melu is one of the more iconic snapshots along the entire trail, and you’re unlikely to forget the dazzling lakes below you.

A steep and quite technical descent leads you to the small Piana refuge. This is a popular spot for folks to take a longer rest and simply enjoy being out in the wild nature of Corsica.

Stage 8: Petra Piana to Onda

Distance: 10 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 500 m / – 900 m

Average Time to Hike: 5 hours

The eighth stage can be taken on in two different ways. You can either head up high along the ridge route, or drop into the valley. The valley will be a safe option when the weather is being tricky, but the ridge will give you even more eagle’s eye views of the island below.

No matter your choice, you’ll end up with a steep descent to Onda where you’ll find a simple refuge surrounded by a grassy field. This is a great spot to relax again, dry out any gear from the fresh storm up on the ridge, or simply let the sun soak in.

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Stage 9: Onda to Vizzavona

Distance: 10.5 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 700 m / – 1200 m

Average Time to Hike: 6 hours

Making it to the ninth stage is no small feat. This halfway point pushes you even more with a large ascent and an even more dramatic drop in elevation. The first climb is up to Bocca Muratello where you’ll be thankful for the previous night’s rest. Immediately after the mountain pass, you drop into a pine forest and toward the village of Vizzavona.

Vizzavona is a great spot to take care of just about anything and everything. You can grab a room in a hotel, stick to the campground, head out to eat, resupply, take a rest day, or even just pass on through. Many folks that are only hiking the north section of the GR20 will stop here and take the train out. Others who are just starting their journey off the southern route are taking the train in to get started on their journey.

Stage 10: Vizzavona to Capanelle

Distance: 16 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 1000 m / – 500 m

Average Time to Hike: 5.25 hours

Leaving Vizzavona is the official start to the southern half of the trail that can feel like an entirely different trail than in the north. This stage is longer, with a good amount of climbing to be done, but it feels more gradual and spread out than in the steep granite sections up north.

Capanelle serves as a ski station during the winter months, so it has more built up accommodation options, which can be nice for anyone still wanting a better night of sleep. After a long and strenuous trek up north, this stage can feel like a huge weight has been lifted.

Stage 11: Capanelle to Prati

Distance: 17 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 900 m / – 750 m

Average Time to Hike: 6 hours

The stretch from Capanelle to Prati is mostly a long traverse along the ridge that gives you great views on both sides. You spend most of the day hiking above treeline, so you need to be prepared for harsh winds, intense sun, and potential afternoon storms.

After a long day of trekking you’ll land at the Prati refuge which sits up on a ridge crest that can often be windy, but the sunsets and sunrises make it all worth it.

Stage 12: Prati to Usciolu

Distance: 11 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 700 m / – 750 m

Average Time to Hike: 5.75 hours

This stage is home to the Cresta d’Usciolu, a famous and jagged ridgeline that forces that path to wing up and over granite towers. If you struggle with exposure to heights, be wary as both sides of the trail have steep drops along this short stretch.

The refuge itself at Usciolu is a rustic and more remote hut. The location is nearly unbeatable, and reminds you of the mountain character that mainly lived up north.

Stage 13: Usciolu to Matalza

Distance: 11 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 300 m / – 600 m

Average Time to Hike: 4.5 hours

This hike is shorter and much calmer than the previous day as you move from the mountain ridge down to dense maquis shrubland. It’s a dramatic change of pace that allows you to simply put one foot in front of the other, connect with some of the local shepherds, and enjoy local cuisine at nearby bergeries.

The Matalza refuge is privately owned, meaning that it provides hearty meals paired with a much more laid-back feel than most of the others along the hike.

Stage 14: Matalza to Asinau

Distance: 10 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 650 m / – 540 m

Average Time to Hike: 4 hours

A climb up to the Cuscione plateau, where you will spend time walking the large grassy meadows filled with free-range animals, starts the fourteenth stage. The walking is mellow for most of the stage until you start to climb up toward the Asinau refuge. Here you can rest up to get on for a bigger day on stage fifteen.

Stage 15: Asinau to Paliri

Distance: 15 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 600 m / – 1100 m

Average Time to Hike: 7 hours

This stage comes with the option to follow the official route up the Bavella pass and then south, or to head up a rugged traverse through the Aiguilles de Bavella. These jagged granite spires are referred to as the Dolomites of Corsica, and they live up to the name. This alpine variant will challenge you as the northern section did, but is an unforgettable experience.

Bavella pass is home to a road with shops, restaurants, and an ice cream stand that may be just what you need after the climb. It’s a harsh re-entry into a more civilized world after weeks in the wild, but can be a great way to start reacclimating as you head toward the terminus of the trail.

The Paliri refuge sits underneath a massive natural rock arch, Punta Tafunata, that makes it one of the most picturesque refuges on the trail, and a great spot for your final night.

Stage 16: Paliri to Conca

Distance: 13.5 kilometers

Elevation Loss/Gain: + 370 m / – 1100 m

Average Time to Hike: 5 hours

The final stage of the GR20 seems at first like it might be a slow and easy walk down, but in the true character of the entire trail, you still have some scrambling upwards before you’re out. Forest paths take over after leaving the granite towers in your wake and bring you down, down, down into the village of Conca.

The village is small and modest, but it’s a huge marker for those who have just pushed themselves to their limit on the trail. The finish itself has plenty of spots to celebrate with drinks, but it’s more about reflecting on your experience and celebrating what you’ve just accomplished.

Choosing a Guide for Hiking the GR20

As you start to plan your hike on the GR20 in Corsica, you may notice the complex logistics that are required to put together a successful itinerary with proper resupply points, accommodation, and transportation. If this is something that you enjoy doing, then great! The logistical part of hiking long distance trails isn’t something that is up everyone’s alley though.

Hiring a guide can almost eliminate all of the logistical puzzle pieces and also add a level of safety in mountainous terrain that can be dangerous for beginners. A lot of options are out there for guides that run 12-16 day traverses of the GR20.

If you are hoping to stick to just the physical aspect of hiking, then hiring a guide is a great way to go. If you’re wanting the full experience, well, planning is a part of it all!

What to Pack to Hike the GR20

Bag Weight

Your bag should hover around a 7-9 kilo base weight that ups to around 9-12 kilos when fully loaded. If you’re planning on camping in a tent and bringing your own food, expect for the weight to be on the higher end of things. Staying at and eating in refuges can save you a huge amount of weight and therefore a lot of pressure on your knees.

Navigation Tools

While the trail is incredibly well marked, it’s still a good idea to become well-versed with a map and compass, or bring along a GPS unit. An offline app that provides detailed topo maps along with GPS can help when the fog settles in and you still need to keep moving forward.

Having a backup is key to staying on the trail and never wandering off-route. While a GR20 trail map and compass is old school, it’s also the most dependable and reliable way to get yourself from point A to B.

Layers

Even in the height of summer, the weather can change dramatically from the morning to the evening. The temperature swings can be huge, and the rainy storms can also bring a load of water that will challenge your gear.

A solid layering system that includes an insulated jacket, a waterproof layer, a light insulating layer, and a breathable base layer will make up a system that you can change as the weather does so you’re always comfortable and safe. Throw in a hat and gloves for those evenings when the wind whips through on cold nights up high.

Hiking Shoes

Most experienced backpackers tend to choose sturdy trail-runners more often than they will grab a pair of hiking boots. This is simply because trail-runners are lighter and will dry out quicker after getting wet.

Any good GR20 packing list will have a set of shoes that have highly grippy rubber so that you can have traction on steep slopes with rocks that have been polished down over the years.

Sleeping Gear

Your choice of gear to sleep with will shift with where you decide to sleep at night. For those that are looking to do some wild camping on the GR20, the bad news is that camping is allowed explicitly at the refuge campgrounds for a small fee. For this you need to bring your own tent, sleeping pad, and sleeping bag.

If you’re choosing to pay a bit more and sleep inside the refuge, you’ll need to pack a sleeping bag and a liner. Nowadays a lot of hikers are choosing a lightweight down quilt that is super warm and ultra lightweight.

First-Aid Kit

A basic first-aid kit goes a long way on any long distance hiking trail. A few things to pack would be a blister kit, anti-inflammatory painkillers, antihistamine, oral rehydration tabs, a small trauma kit with gauze and tape, and a splint wrap. Some folks include emergency water treatment such as iodine drops or chlorine tabs inside of their first-aid kit as well.

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When to Hike the GR20

Jumping on the trail right at the edges of summer tends to be the best time to hike the GR20. In early June and early September you have longer days, but less heat and fewer crowds than the trail has in the high season of July and August. It might be a bit cooler at night, but you’ll appreciate the lower temps throughout the day.

On a day to day basis, it’s best to get hiking early and finish your days in the early afternoon. This allows you to both beat the heat and do your best to miss the afternoon storms. On those days where you may see a lot more lightning throughout the sky, there are several different routes that take you into the valleys to avoid the storms.

Getting To and From the GR20

There are a lot of good options to get into Corsica via airplane and ferry. The ferry leaves from almost anywhere on the southern coast of France and the west coast of Italy. To get to the start of the GR20, fly into Calvi and take a short taxi or bus ride over to Calenzana and strap on your hiking shoes.

You can also fly into Bastia, Ajaccio, or Figari. From any airport you can take the train to get to Vizzavona if you’re hiking the southern section.

The easy bus system allows you to easily get to an airport after finishing the hike in Conca. Because Conca is such a small village, you need to walk or taxi to Sainte Lucie de Porto Vecchio to grab the bus over to whichever airport you’ve booked a ticket to leave from. You can also use the train to connect almost any of the larger towns on the island and easily get from village to airport.

FAQ

How difficult is the GR20 in Corsica?

The GR20 in Corsica is widely regarded as the toughest GR in all of Europe. This comes from a dramatic amount of elevation change that happens over short distances on rough granite slopes and steep cliff faces along the northern section. The southern section smooths out and becomes more of a moderate hike.

Can beginners hike the GR20?

Beginners can certainly hike the GR20 so long as they have prepared both physically and mentally for a difficult trek. For many beginners it may be a good idea to hire a guide in order to make logistics smoother and add a level of safety to the trip.

Is wild camping allowed on the GR20?

The GR20 is managed by the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse (PNRC), which is incredibly strict about the rules on the trail. The PNRC forbids wild camping on the GR20 and sets out rules that you can only pitch your own tent at an official refuge/bergerie campground along the route. These campgrounds cost a small fee and often need to be booked in advance.

Do you need a guide for the GR20 in Corsica?

A guide on the GR20 isn’t required, but it can be a good idea for some people depending on experience level and the main goal of the hike. If you are hoping to pass off the burden of logistics to someone else, or want an extra level of safety, a guide would be a great idea. If you want a pure backpacking experience that includes planning everything yourself, take it on alone.

What is the best time to visit for weather on the GR20?

The best weather is on the edges of summer (June and September) where you have cooler days to hike in. Summer storms become more and more frequent in the peak of summer, but can’t be fully avoided even in months like June and September.

What is the best time to visit to avoid crowds on the GR20?

Many people hiking the GR20 will take advantage of summer holidays and head out to hike in July and August. If you’re hoping to avoid crowds on the GR20, set your trip for early June or early September, but expect colder temperatures up high and potential for more rain.

What is the best time to visit for a budget friendly hike on the GR20?

Prices for things like accommodation on the GR20 will be at their highest in the peak summer months. The shoulder seasons of early June and early September come with less competition for services, meaning the prices can be more manageable.

The GR20 in Corsica: Europe’s Toughest GR

The GR20 can be an intimidating trail to take on, especially when it’s labeled as Europe’s toughest. This can also be an incredibly alluring aspect of the trail for many when the rough granite slabs and steep chain-assisted climbs bring a challenge that’s hard to find elsewhere.

No matter how you choose to hike it, the GR20 in Corsica offers the chance to experience true wild nature in majestic mountainous terrain unlike the rest of the continent. It’s sure to be a time well-spent hiking in good company and enjoying local delicacies after pushing yourself to your absolute limit on the trail.

Don’t let the difficulty push you away! Take it as a challenge, do your best to prep, and get ready for a wild hike!