Scotland is world-renowned for its stunning mountainscapes and rugged peaks and The West Highland Way takes you through a 96-mile stretch of this country that is more than enough to leave you breathless.
While this trip can be challenging, it’s a perfect trek for beginners who are looking to try out long distance trekking in Scotland, but also have a bit of hiking experience under their belts and are ready for something just a bit harder.
Like most backpacking, you just need to be ready for hiking up and down mountains, day after day after day. If that’s what you’re looking for, then taking on the West Highland Way is a perfect next step to add on to your bucket list!
A Brief Overview of the West Highland Way
Travelling through picturesque lochs, wild moorlands, dense forests, and rugged mountain peaks is the 96-mile (154-kilometer) West Highland Way. The route passes through some of the most rural sections of Scotland on its trip from Milngavie, a town located just outside of Glasgow, to Fort William up north in the Scottish Highlands.
While the trail can feel incredibly remote in many sections, there are loads of options for accommodation and services along the way. The route takes you through the rugged beauty and mystique of Scotland, but also passes through villages along the way to make it the perfect combination of beginner-friendly hiking with true adventure through the wilds of Scotland.
This trail opened in 1980 as Scotland’s first official long-distance walking route that was developed to help promote outdoor recreation while bringing more tourism to the small local villages. The route captures much of the rich history of the area including Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glen Coe, and the UK’s tallest mountain, Ben Nevis. The trail follows ancient routes used for centuries by cattle drovers and soldiers alike.
Tens of thousands of hikers take on the West Highland Way every year, and that’s no surprise. This trail is well-known for the stunning scenery, well-marked paths, and unique experience that it brings to everyone who sets foot on its paths.
The Need-to-Know for Hiking the West Highland Way
While the steep and jagged mountain peaks are all along this route, the West Highland Way doesn’t require any mountaineering experience. It does, however, require a basic knowledge of backpacking and a basic level of fitness to go along with it.
But here we’ll cover some of the simple need-to-knows for hiking the West Highland Way before jumping into a detailed section-by-section summary of the entire walk.
Overall Difficulty
The West Highland Way is famous for being attractive to beginners, but it is still considered to be a moderate trail. The terrain doesn’t provide any unexpected challenges, or require special training, but the daily distances can be long and you’re often dealing with unpredictable weather.
Each section brings its own level of difficulty, the toughest being the hike over the Rannoch Moor and the Devil’s Staircase, but some will feel like a rest day or a pleasant walk through the countryside. This is an accessible trail for any beginner hikers with a solid foundation of fitness, especially for those who are ready to take on the wild weather Scotland can often throw at you.
Trail Markers on the West Highland Way
Beginners love this trail precisely because it’s easy to follow. Even when the inevitable bad weather rolls in, you can still find the trail quite easily with the various posts and signs bearing the official West Highland Way symbol, which is a hexagon with a shape inside that looks similar to a vase, or a torch, but is referred to as a thistle.
While navigating this trail is rather straightforward, a map or a GPS is still recommended so you’re ready to tackle any unforeseen challenges.
Terrain of the Scottish Highlands
wild campingGetting ready to hike the West Highland Way means getting ready to hike a variety of terrain including well-maintained footpaths, forest tracks, abandoned military roads, wide open moorlands, and ankle-twisting rocky trails. None of the terrain is technical, but it can provide a challenge for anyone prone to twisting ankles, an issue easily combated by a supportive set of hiking boots and some trekking poles.
Elevation gain on most of your hiking days is rather gentle, but you’ll have some days where you need to climb things like Conic Hill or the Devil’s Staircase, two sections that you can expect to be breathing heavy by the end of.
Wildlife on the West Highland Way
Many creatures call the Highlands home, and you’re likely to run into some along the way. The wildlife on the West Highland Way is generally not something to be worried about, as nothing will pose a threat to you, so long as you don’t pose a threat to them.
If you’re lucky, you’ll run across red deer, highland cows, buzzards, golden eagles, plenty of sheep, and maybe even an otter sitting by a loch. Keep your eyes peeled!
Making Your Itinerary for Hiking the West Highland Way
Most hikers that walk the West Highland Way will allocate between six and nine days to complete the route. This is highly dependent on fitness level, their own goals for the hike, and often, how much time you have to spare.
The most common itineraries balance daily mileage with some time to enjoy both the landscape and the villages that you pass through. If you’re wanting to truly experience this place, you need time to do so. If you’re going out just for the hike, that can be its own type of challenge.
In order to build out a solid itinerary that ticks all the boxes for the average hiker, we’ve included a seven-day itinerary to hiking the West Highland Way that’s achievable for all skill levels and includes a couple of longer days that will give others the challenge they’re looking for.
The West Highland Way: Seven Day Hiking Itinerary
| Seven Day Itinerary for Hiking the West Highland Way | ||
| Section | Average Walking Time | Distance |
| Day One: Milngavie to Drymen | 5 hours | 19 kilometers |
| Day Two: Drymen to Rowardennan | 6-7 hours | 24 kilometers |
| Day Three: Rowardennan to Inverarnan | 6-7 hours | 22 kilometers |
| Day Four: Inverarnan to Tyndrum | 5-6 hours | 19 kilometers |
| Day Five: Tyndrum to Kingshouse | 7-8 hours | 30 kilometers |
| Day Six: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven | 4-5 hours | 14 kilometers |
| Day Seven: Kinlochleven to Fort William | 6-7 hours | 24 kilometers |
Day One: Milngavie to Drymen
Average time: 5 hours
Distance: 19 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -160m / +180m
The official starting point of the West Highland Way is an obelisk in the town center of Milngavie. The town itself is easy to access with a direct train line from Glasgow, making getting to the trail a breeze. Now all you have to do is hike it!
This section is the perfect warm up to get you ready for the next six days. The section itself is relatively flat and serves as a great way to get your legs accustomed to the weight they’ll be carrying and the diverse landscape they’ll be crossing. There are some smaller lochs and rivers that color the landscape along this 19-kilometer section, which is a good introduction to what you’ll be seeing the rest of the time.
Just before entering Drymen, you cross the border into Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. All of a sudden, you come upon Drymen, the most common first stop for all thru-hikers. Here, you can check out cozy bed and breakfasts, or sit down in a pub to enjoy a beer after your first day hiking.
Day Two: Drymen to Rowardennan
Average time: 6-7 hours
Distance: 24 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -420m / +450m
The second day of hiking the West Highland Way takes you out of Drymen and toward Conic Hill. Here, you’ll find stunning views of the wild landscapes that you’re just beginning to trek across. You can also see the chain of islands that is Loch Lomond from atop, giving you a front row seat to an area rich in geological history marking the highland boundary fault.
Down in the small village of Balmaha, where you’ll pass through next, you can visit the National Park Visitor Centre, take a side quest over to the island of Inchcailloch, or simply enjoy a meal before continuing the hike.
When you head out of the village, you pass through ancient oak woodlands and pass by three separate campsites that are great options for sleep if you’re bringing the tent along with you. Just past the campsites, you’ll end the day in Rowardennan. This is the starting point for climbers heading up Ben Lomond, which means it has a great set of options for a hotel or a hostel. From Rowardennan, you can also hop on a waterbus and go to the western shores of Loch Lomond and stay the night in a different area. Either way, you’re bound to wake up in a beautiful spot.
Day Three: Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Average time: 6-7 hours
Distance: 22 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -320m / +300m
In the northern part of Loch Lomond, the waters reach a depth of 620 feet, which was made by the same geographical forces that also created the more intense terrain that you head through on this day’s hike. North of Inversnaid, you’ll be immersed in the beauty of wilderness and dramatic mountainscapes, but that also means that you need to pay extra care while travelling this region. The rocky lochside paths make this one of the more challenging days of the entire trek.
At Inversnaid, the West Highland Way takes you up close on a footbridge spanning the top of a spectacular waterfall. Aside from the waterfall, you’re likely to encounter some wild goats or larger birds of prey such as the Golden Eagle or the Osprey on this section of the trail. They call this region of Scotland home, and are magnificent to watch live in such a wild place.
There are options for accommodation and services on both sides of the loch, where you can take waterbus services from one side to the other quite easily. Then, when you arrive in Inverarnan, visiting the infamous Drovers Inn to share a drink with all your fellow hikers is an absolute must.
Day Four: Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Average time: 5-6 hours
Distance: 19 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -280m / +350m
After a long day of trekking yesterday, you’re rewarded with smoother trails that take you across gentle glens and follow the paths carved by rivers new and old. Along the River Falloch, you can see the Falls of Falloch, immediately before the halfway point of Crianlarich. You can stop by here for a midway break, lunch, or just to visit another small village.
The next river you trek alongside is the River Fillan, where you pass the ruins of St. Fillan’s Priory, before hitting the River Cononish and following that straight into Tyndrum.
This day serves as a great rest after a long day, but also is a well-positioned break for the longer day ahead of you on day five. By the Way Hostel and Tyndrum Inn are both popular options for hikers looking to get a solid night’s rest before tackling the longest day on the trail.
Day Five: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
Average time: 7-8 hours
Distance: 30 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -400m / +450m
Today is long, but the scenery that comes from all the hard work is stunningly beautiful. In the first half of the hike, you get loads of up close and personal views of all the mountains surrounding the trail. Here, the sides of Beinn Odhar and the view of the pyramid of Beinn Dorain define the path that you take. You’ll cross the Bridge of Orchy before the railway leads you down a gentle descent to the railway station. The route follows the Old Military Road from here, which gives you a small climb with a dramatic view across Loch Tulla and the Black Mount before landing in Inveroran.
It’s worth noting that this is a great spot to break up your hike if you want to make the overall trekking days easier. To do that, simply split this into two routes. The first day would be from Tyndrum to Inveroran, and after you can head from Inveroran on to Kingshouse. There’s plenty to see along the way and you might end up thanking yourself for planning in some shorter days!
After Inveroran, the West Highland Way takes you into one of the last great wildernesses in all of Europe. The trail rises up onto the edges of Rannoch Moor and offers beautiful hiking, so long as the weather wants to cooperate with you. Here, you’re quite exposed, so come ready to take on anything that the clouds may throw your way.
Ba Bridge and Ba Cottage offer two great landmarks to enjoy the views and take a break at. If the sky is dumping, the cottage is the perfect spot to sit and wait it out. From here, the trail passes the Glencoe Ski Centre, Black Rock Cottage, and into Kingshouse where you’re sure to sleep well after such a big day.
Day Six: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Average time: 4-5 hours
Distance: 14 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -550m / +300m
Right out of Kingshouse, you’re given a fantastic view of Buachaille Etive Mor. This mountain, or a Munro (the Scottish name for a mountain), is one of the most photographed parts of Scotland, and you’ll instantly see why. It has a rich history of the massacre of Clan MacDonald in 1692, and more recently has been used for filming the Bond movie Skyfall.
You head toward the starting point for hiking this mountain, but turn sharply away to tackle the Devil’s Staircase before getting there. This climb takes you up to the highest point of the West Highland Way at 550 meters. From here, you can look back at The Buachaille as well as the Mamores mountain range.
Once you finally reach the top of the Devil’s Staircase (way to go!) you get a short break of a wandering trail across the moorland before you need to put your legs back to work and descend down to Kinlochleven. The National Centre for Ice Climbing is in the town and is a great thing to go check out if you have extra energy!
Day Seven: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Average time: 6-7 hours
Distance: 24 kilometers
Altitude Loss/Gain: -600m / +500m
The initial climb out of Kinlochleven leads you to Lairigmor (the great pass), where you have incredible views of Loch Leven. The path follows the glen to the north where it eventually will reach Glen Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain. Climbing this mountain is another fun trip to add to your list and could be an extra day added on to the trip if you wish!
There’s an optional detour before you drop down to Fort William where you can visit the remains of an Iron Age fort near Glen Nevis called Dun Deardail. If not, then you’re already on the home stretch toward finishing one of the best long distance hiking trails in Europe.
The terminus brings you to a bronze statue of a fellow hiker in Gordon Square where you can head straight into a pub to begin your celebrations!
Choosing a Guide for Hiking the West Highland Way
The West Highland Way is loved by beginners for its accessibility and well marked paths. However, if you’re still looking for additional support you may be interested in joining a guided group.
Joining a guided group for the West Highland Way is a great choice if you’re looking for more insights into the local life. A lot of these guides will bring unique perspectives and rich detailed histories of the places that you’re hiking through.
You also can make things simply easier on yourself by choosing a guide. There are options for luggage transfer services and companies that will take care of all the logistical pieces such as building out a personalized itinerary. If you want to simply show up and walk, then finding a guide is a great option!
What to Pack to Hike the West Highland Way
Waterproof Gear
You’ve chosen to hike the West Highland Way, which most likely means you’ve chosen to get rained on at one point or another. With the right rain gear, you can still have a great time and keep yourself and all your gear dry.
We recommend bringing a lightweight and breathable GoreTex jacket and rain paints, but also adding on a pack cover for your backpack. If you’re headed out in the rain, you might want to consider sealing up your electronics and some clothing in a waterproof bag (a plastic shopping bag can often do the trick!)
Staying dry is key to both your safety and your enjoyment while on the trail, so this is a great spot to buy better gear, even if it costs a bit more.
Layers
Along with rain, the West Highland Way can offer some temperature swings that will surprise you. Scotland is well-known for days where it feels like a blizzard in the morning, a midsummer beach day by noon, and a tsunami before afternoon tea. So it’s best to come prepared for all of it.
Pack extra layers for adding on top of your hiking clothes when the temperature drops as well as some added warmth like a beanie and mittens. Even in the summer, they can be valuable for the nighttime or during unexpectedly cold days.
Hiking Shoes
Hiking shoes are one of the most important pieces of gear that you’ll bring along on any long distance hiking trails in Europe. In Scotland, it can be a great idea to pack waterproof hiking boots to keep your feet safe from hiking with wet feet for seven days in a row. However, this can backfire if you aren’t able to get them dry once they’ve gotten wet, so you may need to consider both the pros and the cons of hiking in waterproof shoes.
If you’re wild camping on the West Highland Way, you might want to also bring a pair of lightweight sandals to serve as camp shoes. These give your feet a break and give your hiking shoes or boots the chance to air out and dry a bit before tomorrow.
Sleeping Gear
If you’re choosing to wild camp on the West Highland Way, be sure to bring a good set of sleeping gear like a sleeping bag, tent, and sleeping pad. Temperatures can drop at night, so it might be important to look at the average temperatures for the months that you’re hiking, know if you’re a warm or cold sleeper, and pack the right sleeping bag to fit your needs.
Even if you’re not wild camping, you might benefit from bringing some additional sleeping gear so you can rest comfortably. This could be an inflatable pillow, or a set of sleep clothes that you only pull out at night. Anything to get you better rest is important!
Map and GPS
Although the West Highland Way is one of the most well-marked trails in Europe, it’s still important to bring along a paper map or a GPS. Even on these well-marked trails, you can easily get lost and turned around. Without a map, you can be lost for days up in the Scottish Highlands, so carry one and learn how to use it before heading out.
GPX files are easily available on the West Highland Way’s website for each section of the trail. You can get these downloaded and uploaded to your GPS device right before you head out and you’ll likely never get lost.
First-Aid Kit
A must-have for all day hikes becomes an absolute must with any long distance treks. Your first aid kit should include all of the basics such as plasters, an ACE wrap, pain relievers, diphenhydramine for allergic reactions, gauze, antiseptic wipes, and much more.
You know yourself best and know what kind of medical issues you may be more prone to running into (allergic reactions or frequently rolled ankles). Pack a first aid kit that works for you as well as for other hikers that may be in need of help along the way.
Snacks and Water
Even though you often pass through villages on the West Highland Way, it’s worth packing loads of snacks to give you the extra energy boost when you need it. Pick your favorite backpacking snack and bring them along, or pick up extras when resupplying in the villages along the way.
For water, you can often fill up in town but it’s a good idea to carry a form of water treatment such as iodine tablets or a water filter in order to have access to clean drinking water wherever you might be. Luckily, on the West Highland Way, water will be everywhere, even falling from the sky.
Cash
A lot of these remote areas are slow to adapt to all of the new technology such as credit card machines. They are also smaller, family-run businesses that don’t want to take the loss when a credit card is used, and thus, they prefer to have a cash-based business.
Pack just a bit of cash to have on hand for any time that you may run into somewhere like this to make sure you won’t have to go without the bag of crisps you’ve been craving for the last ten miles!
When to Hike the West Highland Way
The best hiking window for the West Highland Way is between May and September. This is when you’ll have the warmer weather, without as much of the rain (yes, of course there will likely still be rain, it’s Scotland).
May and June are ideal for hikers that want to make sure they have enough daylight to take their time on the hike and not feel rushed to get to town before the sun sets and leaves them stranded out in the dark. These months also bring fewer midges, which is a massive plus for anyone that’s ever been swarmed.
July and August are much more popular because of the warmer temperatures and the holiday break from school. These months are absolutely beautiful with less rain and better weather overall, but this also means that more people and more midges will be out on the trail ready to hike with you. Often, the best time to hike the trail is whenever you have the time to do it!
Getting to the West Highland Way
While the West Highland Way takes you to some incredibly remote and scenic areas of Scotland, it’s still easily accessible by train and bus.
The trail starts off in Milngavie, where you can easily get to via the train from Glasgow’s Queen Street station. This is just a short 30-minute train ride, which is barely enough to get a taste for the scenery you’re about to be immersed in.
Once you arrive in Fort William, you can take the scenic West Highland Line train, or the bus all the way back to Glasgow. Again, it will be just enough to get in a short, well-deserved nap before heading off to the airport or just another adventure in Glasgow.
Where to Stay Along the West Highland Way
There are plenty of options for where to stay while hiking the West Highland Way in all of the villages on the route. There’s a mix of B&Bs, hostels, campsites, and hotels at just about every stop. You may also choose to go the route of wild camping on the West Highland Way. This is a great option if you’re alright with packing more gear and sleeping out in the cold.
If you choose to go wild camping, be sure to look up the rules and regulations before heading out. For example, from March 1 to September 30, wild camping is banned in parts of Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park, especially along the east shore, where the Way runs.
Do your research and book campsites and hotels well in advance during the peak summer months otherwise you may find yourself wild camping without the gear you need because you forgot to plan to bring it!
Conclusion
The West Highland Way is one of Europe’s most iconic long distance hiking treks and is easily accessible for beginners and expert hikers alike. It takes you through some of the most remote and truly wild parts of the continent without ever putting you too far out of your comfort zone.
If you’re looking for a challenge, or simply wanting to get out and be amongst some of the most beautiful mountains in the world, putting together your own West Highland Way itinerary, or simply following the one in here, and getting out onto the trail will give you the adventure you’re looking for!
